A very warm welcome in Santiago de Cuba

Arriving at Santiago de Cuba

After leaving Long Island we sailed towards Great Inagua, still in the Bahamas, overnight. Our thinking was that we could take one last weather check before heading on a second overnight through the windward passage (between Haiti and Cuba). The first part of our trip from Clarence town was perfect, light winds and light swell, clear skies and a full moon overnight – champagne sailing – we even got the spinnaker out for a little while. At 7am we were off the Matthew Town and checked the weather – reducing swell and 15-20 knots of wind from the NE in the passage. As it happened the swell was 2 metres and pretty short (that equals uncomfortable) and the wind was lighter than forecast so we had a several hours of washing machine seas and motor sailing – which was not what was planned, however we did catch a fabulous Wahoo – enough for 4 meals. Neither of us got much sleep until we got some protection from the swell once we tucked in close to the Cuban shore. It nearly took all day to get through the passage due to the shape of the land.

Big Mountains just before sunset

We got our first glimpse of the southern Cuban landscape just before sunset. Overnight the wind was North East and light and a bit gusty off the land however we sailed some and motor sailed some of it. About 2am I was on watch as we approached Guantanamo Bay – we were 2 miles offshore and had set waypoints to ensure we did not go into the US restricted area. We had huge spotlights shone on us as we approached the area and then had a call from the US coast guard requesting we change course. I complied however this was a real pain as it was taking us away from the protection of the land and not in a direction we could sail. I pursued the course for a few minutes and then called back and requested permission to change back to our earlier heading – they said yes but to stay 5 miles off – I was only 3 but all was fine…. It was interesting to read that one of our charts actually referred to the area as being illegally occupied by the USA.

 

Sunset over cuba

The rest of the night was easy and without incident and we arrived at the entrance to Santiago Harbour about 8am. We called on the radio and were welcomed to Cuba by the Guarda Frontera and handed over to the Marina Marlin Punta Gorda to complete formalities. The harbour is entrance is really quite something, it’s wide and deep with high cliffs on either side. On the north side the impressive UNESCO heritage listed, Castilo de San Pedro de la Roca del Morro is perched on the cliff, with the Sierra Mastra mountains rising behind.

We made our way towards the marina and a very cheerful Jorg, called us on the radio with his perfect English, he took our details and welcomed us to Santiago. We had read the marina had ‘hull piercing rebar’ and underwater obstructions, in sections, so when Jorg told to anchor and come and collect the officials we were very happy. We were surprised to find the marina full and about 6/7 boats at anchor, mostly French but one Swiss and one Dutch too. We anchored near a local restaurant that was pumping out infectious Cuban music, with big waves from people on the shore and on the passing ferry – so totally exciting.

Approaching the anchorage

Andrew bringing the doctor to the boat

We promptly launched the dinghy and Andrew whizzed ashore and returned immediately with the doctor who was waiting on the dock; he was pleased to take a beer even though it was only 9.30am – that’s obviously good for your health! Half an hour later and we were cleared healthy; he also advised on health precautions in Cuba – Dengue Fever and to drink bottled water. Andrew took the doctor ashore with our papers and then wasn’t seen for the next two hours – yes I was starting to get a bit nervous and wondered how I long to wait before contacting the embassy - I do know that the Canadian Embassy looks after Australians in Cuba and our Foreign Miniter Julie Bishop was here last year – I’m pretty sure her number is in Andrew’s phone….. nothing like a two nights at sea then arriving in a strange country to let my imagination run wild….

Just before mid-day Andrew arrived back at the boat with two Customs Officials to bond our drone and sat phone. That means putting tape around them and photographing them sealed for inspection again when we leave Cuba. They took a Sprite each and seemed to really enjoy it, then with a lot of laughs – welcomed us officially before Andrew dropped them onshore. We had arrived in Cuba!

 

Bonding the drone and sat phone

We tidied the boat and then went to meet with Jorg – he had wanted to meet me and go through a really detailed orientation with us. He is a fantastic guy and so knowledgeable – he spent over an hour with us taking about Cuba and things to do Santiago. We arranged with him to get some fuel to top off our tanks and for a driver he knows to take us to the City the next day. Cuba gets a bad write up for all the rules, however my take away from today is that they just really want to protect us and make sure we enjoy our time in Cuba. When we are in a major settlement we can only go ashore at a marina, then once we are through security we can go anywhere we please. We must clear in and out of ports, lift our dinghy at night and we must not let any Cuban on the boat unless they are officials – not too onerous.

It feels really foreign here and our arrival was easy, but still a little overwhelming when tired.  The scenery is truly beautiful and the energy and warmth from everyone we have met so far makes me really excited to be here. We feel like we are truly cruising again…..  The only problem with this anchorage is the factory pumping out noxious stuff, which can land on the boat and is really hard to get off. Jorg explained that it happens randomly over night and they get no warning – I put a tonne of polish on Askari in the hope that might help if we get unlucky. Tomorrow we go and explore Santiago to Cuba……

Our view Santiago anchorage